Gili Lawa

Gili Lawa sits in the far north of Komodo National Park, split into two islands — Darat and Laut. It's not the most famous stop on the circuit, which is exactly why it's worth going.

The draw is the ridge on Darat. You hike up through open savannah — no steps, no handrails, just a steep grassy slope — and at the top the whole thing opens up. A deep bay below you, Komodo Island across the water, smaller islands fading into the haze. Locals call it the Komodo fjord, and standing there you understand why. Padar gets more visitors and more Instagram posts, but people who've done both tend to say Gili Lawa feels more real. The climb is 20 to 45 minutes depending on how fit you're feeling. Go for sunrise or sunset. If it's sunset, bring a torch — coming down in the dark without one is miserable.

The bay itself is one of the calmest anchorages in the park. No real currents, sheltered from the wind. Liveaboards overnight here for that reason, and the snorkelling straight off the shore is genuinely good — healthy coral, turtles showing up regularly. Castle Rock and Crystal Rock are nearby for anyone diving at advanced level.